January 1st 2009. While everyone was recovering from their new years hangovers I was travelling up to Heathrow to catch my flight to Hawaii. it was a bit cheaper to travel on new years day although I had to pay an extra £70 for my quiver of boards. I’m travelling with two 5’10”’s, a 6 zero, a six four and my trusty seven foot gun.
January 2nd 2009. After 18 hours in the air I have finally arrived in Oahu, I am staying at Rocky Point in a house owned by a fabulous lady called Rex.
January 5th 2009. Been here a few days now and settled in fine, no jet lag at all now so thats all good, and only had on night of dodgy sleep. Been surfing loads, every day, its been kinda windy and rainy, but then last nite and today , it cleaned up and has been sunny, ive got tan lines already!! Ive been surfing rockies loads, its breaking really well at the moment, cus all the sand has cleaned off the reef and its just really lefts and rights, rights are a bit shallow so sticking to the lefts which is good for my back hand! I just had a mornings session, well two acyually, I went in at 6.30 then had some breckie and then went back in , just had some lunch and havin a bit of a rest before gunna head down to V-land to see what thats looking like. I’ve seen some of the British crew who are here, i saw Toby (Donachie) briefly before he flew out to Aus, also Luis Eyre, and I bumped into (Croyde local) Ben Ruth yesterday at the super market, (funny how its such a small world!) and hes out here all winter so thats good!! Ollie Adams and Emma are here as well, I’m goin down to Wakiki with them tomorrow to cruse on longboards for a photographer!